Rabbits can be a gardener’s worst nightmare. Their voracious appetites and ability to squeeze through small spaces make protecting your plants a challenge. Chicken wire is a popular option for deterring rabbits, but does it really work? I did some research to find out.
How Rabbits Damage Gardens
Before deciding on solutions, it helps to understand how rabbits interact with gardens. Rabbits are drawn to tender young plants like seedlings and shoots. They use their sharp incisors to snip off stems and buds cleanly. Rabbits also gnaw on tree bark in winter when food is scarce. The early spring and summer are peak seasons for rabbit damage.
Rabbits have high reproduction rates A single female can produce up to 4 litters per year, each with 1-12 babies Populations explode in ideal habitat with plentiful food and lack of predators. Extensive damage can occur overnight.
Common signs of rabbit activity include scattered droppings, plants clipped at an angle, and bark stripping on trees. Prevention is key to avoid decimation of your hard work.
Can Chicken Wire Effectively Deter Rabbits?
Chicken wire can create a physical barrier to keep rabbits out of gardens when installed properly. It’s also affordable and readily available. However, chicken wire has limitations:
Pros:
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Low cost and easy to find,
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Can be adapted for various protective structures.
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Creates a fence or cage that rabbits cannot pass through.
Cons:
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Not very durable or weather resistant.
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Requires proper installation to prevent rabbits burrowing underneath.
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Unsightly appearance if not installed neatly.
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Determined rabbits may breach the fence if hungry enough.
The success of chicken wire depends heavily on correct set up. Poor installation makes access easy for rabbits. Proper steps must be taken to ensure an effective barrier.
How to Install Chicken Wire Fencing
Follow these guidelines to properly install chicken wire and keep rabbits at bay:
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Use 1-inch mesh or smaller to prevent rabbits squeezing through holes.
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Bury the bottom 6-12 inches underground with an L-shaped outward bend to stop digging.
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Secure the wire to the ground with stakes every few feet to eliminate sagging or gaps.
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Make the height at least 2-3 feet tall so rabbits cannot jump over.
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Trim back any branches or debris that could allow climbing over the fence.
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Check for and repair any damage after severe weather.
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Monitor for breaches and dig-ins by baby rabbits.
Proper set up takes labor and vigilance but pays off by protecting plants. Include an outward-facing buried edge and sufficient height in your design.
Alternative Fencing and Deterrents
For enhanced protection, consider these alternatives to chicken wire:
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Hardware cloth has smaller openings that better block entry.
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Solid wood or vinyl fencing is more durable but pricier.
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Electric fencing delivers a mild shock to repel rabbits.
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Plant rabbit-resistant species like onions, garlic, and chili peppers.
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Use repellents made specifically for rabbits. Reapply after rain.
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Install raised beds that lift plants out of easy reach.
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Protect young plants with wire mesh cages or netting.
A combination of fencing, plant choices, and repellents boosts effectiveness in high rabbit traffic areas.
Will Rabbits Eventually Get Past Chicken Wire?
Chicken wire has its limitations but can be effective rabbit control when installed properly. The small opening size and buried edge create a barrier that rabbits struggle to breach. However, persistent rabbits may find ways through:
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Young rabbits can squeeze through 1-inch mesh. Use 1/2-inch or smaller openings.
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Any gaps, holes, loose wire or inadequate bury depth make entry easier.
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Rabbits may dig far enough below to bypass the buried wire edge.
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Famished rabbits are incredibly motivated and will search relentlessly for flaws.
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Rabbit populations with limited food sources due to overgrazing or winter scarcity are hardest to repel.
Diligent fortification, upkeep, and monitoring are needed to ensure chicken wire keeps rabbits at bay. For high pressure areas, additional deterrents help reinforce the fence. Avoid a false sense of security from poorly installed chicken wire, as rabbits are clever and determined. But with proper setup, it can effectively protect your garden.
Frequently Asked Questions
What size mesh works best?
Use 1/2-inch or smaller mesh. 1-inch may allow young rabbits to pass through.
How deep should I bury the wire?
Bury at least 6 inches but ideally 12 inches underground. Deeper is better.
Can rabbits climb over chicken wire?
Not usually, but they could use branches or other items to climb over a short fence. Make it 2-3 feet tall.
Does chicken wire deter baby rabbits?
It can, but small rabbits can fit through surprisingly tight spaces. Use the smallest mesh possible.
How often should I check for holes or dig-ins?
Inspect monthly, and more frequently after storms. Look for breaches and repair them quickly.
Can I protect individual plants with chicken wire?
Yes, build cylindrical cages around susceptible plants, with proper bury depth.
The Bottom Line
Rabbits can annihilate a garden overnight and are difficult to permanently evict. Chicken wire is an affordable option for fencing them out, but only if installed correctly. Use small mesh, sufficient height, regular inspections, and proper burial to ensure an effective barrier. Supplement with other deterrents in high traffic areas. With diligence, chicken wire can effectively protect plants from these notorious garden pests.
Summary of Key Points:
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Chicken wire can effectively deter rabbits when installed properly, but has limitations.
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Rabbits are prolific breeders drawn to tender young plants, capable of extensive damage.
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Proper chicken wire installation requires small mesh, 2-3 foot height, 6-12 inch bury depth, and securing to the ground.
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Persistent rabbits may eventually find ways through chicken wire, requiring vigilance.
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For best results, combine chicken wire with other deterrents like repellents, fencing alternatives, and plant choices.
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With diligent installation and monitoring, chicken wire can provide economical and effective rabbit control.
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Gathering the Supplies / the Home Depot Run
Probably the most time consuming part of this entire process was figuring out where these supplies where in Home Depot.. I ended up using the following items to build our fence:
- Wired Fence – recommendations I saw were for a 2-3 ft high fence; After burying part of this 28″ tall fence, the result was a fence running about 2ft above ground. I did see several folks also recommended poultry wire (a.k.a. chicken wire), which was available for much cheaper. If I were to do this again, I would purchase fencing material with smaller holes – while this fence may be targeted at rabbits, the smaller holes might help dissuade squirrels and other pests as well.
- Wooden Stakes – the Internet advised putting a support stake every 5-7 feet. I had some wooden slats laying around from an IKEA bed frame which worked just fine.
- Galvanized Wire – used to connect the fence material to the stakes.
- Shovel – used for digging the trenches.
- Wire Cutters or Pliers – used in cutting wire fence and wire attachments; also made bending the wire fence much easier.
- Hammer – used for driving the stakes into the ground; hitting with the side of the hammer head worked best.
Standing Up the Fence
I placed a wooden stake about every 5 feet along the trenches. I used the side of my hammer head to drive the stakes into the ground just enough to hold while I worked in the fencing wire. At this point the stakes were pretty unstable, which was OK; they became much more stable later once I filled in the trenches with soil.
The next step was adding in the fencing wire; I buried about 5-6 inches of the fence underground by laying it in an “L” shape in the trench. It’s recommended to have the “L” section facing outward to make it more difficult for rodents to dig underneath. Here is a good YouTube video of folks using this technique in action.
Next I began burying the fence, starting with the area around the posts. This helped introduce stability to the posts, and allowed me to test that fence itself was taught enough to keep critters out.
After checking the posts and fence wire, I eventually filled in the rest of the trench.