So you’ve decided to keep backyard chickens. Exciting! Now comes the fun part – building your chickens their new home. One of the most important decisions you’ll make is determining the height of your chicken run. This will impact everything from the chickens’ health and safety to your own convenience as a chicken keeper.
In this complete guide, we’ll walk through all the key considerations in choosing the ideal run height for your feathered flock Whether you’re new to chicken keeping or a seasoned pro, you’ll find the info you need to get your run dimensions just right Let’s get started!
Why Run Height Matters
The height of your run serves several critical functions:
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Containment – The walls of the run keep your chickens safely in and predators out. For birds that are flighty, greater height prevents escape.
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Protection – A taller run with a covered top provides security from aerial and climbing predators like hawks raccoons foxes, etc.
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Comfort – Chickens need vertical space to express natural behaviors like wing flapping, roosting, and avoiding overcrowding.
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Ventilation – Good airflow reduces ammonia buildup from droppings. More height allows better air circulation.
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Human Access – A run you can stand up in makes caring for chickens easier. Bending over leads to back pain.
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Durability – Run frames built taller and stronger tend to withstand weather and heavy use better over time.
Factors That Determine Ideal Height
While 6 feet is a good minimum run height for most flocks, your ideal height depends on several factors:
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Chicken breed – Larger breeds need more vertical room. Chickens prone to flight also benefit from greater height.
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Run coverage – If you’ll cover the run with wire or roofing, allow extra headspace.
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Predators – More height with full overhead coverage helps deter aerial and climbing predators.
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Human height – Consider your own height and mobility constraints. Taller is better for accessibility.
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Regulations – Local ordinances may dictate structure height. Research before building.
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Budget – A taller run requires more materials and potentially labor. Weigh costs vs. benefits.
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Space constraints – Small yards may limit run footprint. Go taller instead of wider if needed.
Take time to assess your specific needs and constraints. This will allow you to plan a run optimized for your flock and property.
Recommended Minimum Heights
As a very general guideline, here are some minimum recommended run heights:
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4 feet – Only for smaller bantam breeds in low predator areas. Restricts human access.
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5-6 feet – For average sized chickens and human convenience. May allow some flying.
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6-8 feet – Better for larger breeds, flighty birds, and predator protection.
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8+ feet – Extra tall runs that maximize space for big chickens. Allows walk-in access.
Again, these are just rough starting points. Err on the taller side if you have predator concerns or want to contain flighty breeds. And ensure you can access the run comfortably.
Other Design Considerations
Beyond height, a few other tips for your run design:
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Use 1/2 or 1 inch hardware cloth instead of chicken wire for predator protection. Bury edges at least 12 inches.
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Include a predator-proof run door with sturdy latch.
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If covering the run, use steel roofing panels or aviary netting with a tight mesh.
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Frame the structure securely using anchored 4×4 posts and 2×4 framing.
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Add roosts, perches, ramps and platforms to create vertical interest.
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Ventilate the run properly, but avoid drafts.
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Ensure adequate drainage and clean weekly to control ammonia.
Get these elements right in addition to the height, and your chickens will have a secure, healthy and enriching environment that’s a joy to maintain.
Frequently Asked Questions
Let’s explore some common questions about chicken run height:
Can I get away with a 4 foot run?
For very small bantams only. Otherwise no. It limits access and increases predation risk significantly.
What’s the maximum height?
No true maximum, but over 10 feet has diminishing returns on cost and construction challenges.
Do different breeds need different heights?
Yes. Larger breeds need more space. Known flyers also need taller runs. Tailor to your specific breed.
How can I add height in a small yard?
Go taller vs. wider. Add roosts, ramps and platforms to create vertical space. Or divide into tiered levels.
Is covering the run absolutely necessary?
In predator prone areas, yes. Even with height, uncovered runs leave chickens vulnerable to aerial attacks.
How much does it cost to build a taller run?
Expect to invest a few hundred dollars more for a 6-8 foot vs. 4-5 foot run. The benefits are well worth it.
Can predators like raccoons jump or climb in?
Raccoons can’t typically jump over 6 feet, but are expert climbers. Eliminate footholds and handholds.
Does a taller run need a more robust frame?
Yes, reinforce the framing, posts and connections to handle the weight load and wind resistance.
How do I clean a tall run?
Build doors and access panels at strategic spots. Use a shop vac and other long-handled tools to reach corners.
Conclusion
Figuring out the ideal chicken run height requires balancing several factors specific to your situation. Take the time to assess your needs and constraints before building. And don’t skimp on height – those extra feet pay dividends in safety, health and convenience over the long run. With smart planning and quality construction, your chickens will enjoy their stately new home for years to come.
So get out your tape measure, sharpen your pencil, and let’s start designing! Your flock is eagerly awaiting their new playground.
5 reasons you may need a taller chicken coop
If you don’t have a large run, you’ll definitely want to build a larger coop. I would suggest your coop be larger all around, including the height.
Your chickens will likely be more aggressive with each other if they don’t have a lot of room. You’ll want to give them as much space in the coop as possible. To learn exactly how much space your chickens will need, check out my article, How big should your chicken coop be?
However, if you can only give your chickens a very small run, consider that chickens may not be right for you at this time. These birds need a lot of room to thrive.
The coop pictured above is large enough for 5-6 hens (and only 6 if they got along well and have a large run). You will need to build a larger coop if you have any more chickens.
The reason a taller coop may come in handy is because once you increase the floor space of your coop beyond about 4 feet x 4 feet, it becomes more difficult to clean the coop, collect eggs, and catch chickens for health checks. You will need to climb into the coop and crawl around.
This is why I recommend building a walk-in coop if you plan on having more chickens. You will have such an easier time cleaning it. No stooping or crawling around, hurting your back or knees.
Also, if you have a larger coop, you may have room to stack nesting boxes, thereby giving your chickens more floor space. Just make sure your roosting bars are higher than the nesting boxes.
My chickens are standard-size chickens and the measurements I gave above work well for them. However, if you have larger (and, therefore, taller) birds, like Brahmas or Orpingtons, you will want to make your coop taller too in order to protect them from drafts. Consider adding at least 6 inches (or even better, 1 foot) to the walls.
Roosters are larger than hens, and some may be tall enough that they’ll feel a draft. I do keep a rooster in the coop pictured above, and he does fine, but he has a Sweeter Heater hanging above him to help keep his comb warm in the winter.
One last thing, DO NOT keep multiple roosters in a small coop. The coop pictured above is way too small for more than one rooster (unless you have no hens and the roosters get along well). If you have hens and you keep more than one rooster in a small coop, you will likely have dead roosters (and injured hens if they get in the crossfire).
The subordinate roosters will not have enough space to keep away from the dominant roosters’ hens, and they will not have enough space to escape attacks from more dominant roosters.
For help on figuring out how much space your coop should have in these circumstances, check out my article, How big should your chicken coop be?
In the coop pictured above, I do not use a droppings tray. This is because only a few chickens live in this coop and I just scoop their droppings out of the sand every day with a kitty litter scooper. I do use trays in my larger coops (and I love them).
If you are using a droppings tray or board to collect the droppings underneath the roosting bars, it will take up space under the bars. This means your chickens will not have enough room to use the floor space under the roosts if the coop is only 3.5 feet tall.
Measure how much room your droppings trays will take up and then add that much height to the roosting bars. Then you’ll need to also increase the height of the walls by the same amount in order to get the ventilation high enough above the chickens’ heads.
In the example I’ve shown here, the coop has about 4 inches of sand bedding.
Some chicken keepers, however, like to use a very thick layer of bedding in their coops. Those who use the deep litter method, may have as much as 12-18 inches of bedding. If this is the case for you, you’ll need higher roosting bars, so that the chickens can use the space underneath. Again, you’ll therefore need higher walls to make sure the ventilation is high enough above the chickens to avoid drafts.
For more on chicken coop bedding, check out these articles:
Where to find a tall enough chicken coop for 5-6 Chickens
If you want a chicken coop similar to the one that I’ve featured in this article, you will probably not be able to find a new one for sale easily. The chicken coops sold on Amazon or at Walmart are too small and poorly made. Most of the coops sold at farm supply stores aren’t great either.
For example, the little wooden chicken coop in the photo below (pictured to the right of the red coop) is one you can buy from Amazon, supposedly large enough for several chickens. The person I bought it from used it for 7 hens—poor ladies!
Think about it for a minute—the red coop above (the same one as in my earlier photos) is only big enough for 5-6 chickens. How many hens could you humanely put in the little cheap coop? Not 7. Not 5. Maybe 1. I’d argue 0.
There is no place to roost in these cheap coops, ventilation is inadequate, and the coops aren’t weather- or predator-proof. For more about these coops, see my article Why you should NEVER buy a chicken coop from Amazon or Walmart.
The one place I’ve found that makes super high-quality chicken coops delivered to your door (and placed in your yard, if you opt for it) is Rita Marie’s Chicken Coops. I purchased my newest coop from this company and I love it—you can see my review here.
Otherwise, you may need to build your own. You could also try to buy a high-quality used coop that somebody else built themselves—check out your local Craigslist. I’ve found coops this way before with mixed results.