Pork pies are a quintessential British food. These handheld savory pies are filled with seasoned pork and set in a hot water crust pastry. But if you’re not from certain parts of England, you may find their nickname a bit perplexing. Why are pork pies referred to as “growlers” in places like Yorkshire? As it turns out, there are a few theories about the origins of this peculiar moniker.
In this article, we’ll explore the murky history behind the term “growler” for pork pies. We’ll look at some of the leading theories about where this name came from and why it endures today in pork pie-loving regions like Yorkshire. So read on to get to the bottom of this culinary mystery!
The History and Popularity of Pork Pies in Yorkshire
While pork pies are beloved across Britain they hold a special place in the hearts (and stomachs!) of Yorkshire locals. Pork pies have been a staple of Yorkshire cuisine since the 18th century. Back then, resourceful farmers and their families would create pork pies as a way to use up scraps and leftovers from pigs they raised. These pies were handy portable snacks for workers out in the fields.
Over time, pork pies became more popular and artisanal. Local bakeries began selling them, and they took on an iconic status across Yorkshire. Today, an annual pork pie competition in the town of Ripponden brings pie makers and pie lovers together to celebrate this savory regional specialty.
It’s in Yorkshire where pork pies are often referred to as “growlers.” But why this particular nickname? There are a few origin theories that may explain it.
The “NAAFI Growler” Theory
One of the most popular theories about why pork pies are called growlers in Yorkshire relates to an item used in the British armed forces. “NAAFI” was a Navy, Army and Air Force Institutes organization that ran recreational establishments for British armed forces personnel. A “NAAFI growler” referred to a lidded metal bucket used to transport beer from these establishments back to naval ships and army barracks.
The term “growler” eventually became slang used by military personnel to describe anything cylindrical in shape. Since a handheld pork pie would resemble the shape of a growler bucket, this may be how the nickname arose in Yorkshire and spread more widely from there.
The Grumbling Stomach Theory
Another possible origin of the “growler” nickname points to the sound one’s stomach makes after eating. Traditional pork pies could be heavy on hard-to-digest ingredients like fats and organ meats. It’s easy to imagine these pies sitting heavy in the stomach causing it to “growl” after eating.
In Yorkshire slang, to “growl” can mean to complain or grumble. So calling pork pies “growlers” may have implied they were the kind of dish to make your stomach complain after the fact! Of course, today’s pork pies use tastier cuts of meat and less offal, but the name has stuck around.
The Questionable Ingredients Theory
Speaking of ingredients, there’s also a theory that “growler” arose from the questionable ingredients used in old-fashioned pork pies. Before modern food regulations, pies may have contained unsavory additions like grease and organ meats. Some think the growler nickname came from the guttural reaction people had to learning what was actually inside the pies!
Much like the term “bangers” references the unsavory fillers used in old sausages, “growlers” could have been a comical label referencing the nasty animal bits that once went into pork pies. Thankfully, today’s pies are generally more appetizing.
Other Theories: Dogs, Horses, and Buckets
There are a few other minor theories about the origin of “growlers” for pork pies. One suggests it’s related to the slang term “dog” for sausage rolls, based on the questionable meat theory. Another ties it to “growler” being slang for a horse-drawn wagon or carriage historically used in Yorkshire. And some think it might come from the term for metal pails used to carry beer home from the pub.
While we can’t be totally certain where “growler” came from, these theories all provide interesting possibilities!
Yorkshire Remains the Home of the “Growler”
Whatever its exact origins, the term “growler” is still going strong in Yorkshire today. The region remains deeply connected to pork pie history and culture. Locals and tourists alike enjoy picking up a fresh, hot growler as a quick snack or meal.
The annual pork pie competition in Ripponden is a charming celebration of this humble yet iconic regional food. Competitors showcase their pie-making skills, judges carefully rate each entry, and crowds savor juicy slice after slice. For many, a Yorkshire pork pie just wouldn’t taste the same without its signature “growler” nickname.
Pork Pies are Now a Gourmet Treat
Yorkshire pork pies may have once contained questionable meats, but today they are an artisanal delight. Across Britain and beyond, foodies are discovering just how delicious a properly-made, high-quality pork pie can be.
Modern pies spotlight premium ingredients like free range heritage pork and flaky, buttery pastry. Some creative twists incorporate ingredients like black pudding, chorizo, or sweet pickles. Vegetarian and vegan pies also allow non-meat eaters to get in on the fun.
From street food to gourmet butcher shops, there are countless ways to savor a pork pie. It can be served diced in a salad, sliced on a cheese board, or simply eaten by hand. However you enjoy it, the “growler” remains a charming nod to pork pie history.
In Summary
So there you have it! A range of theories that may explain why pork pies came to be known as “growlers” in places like Yorkshire. From army slang to grumbling stomachs to dodgy ingredients, all these origin stories point to pork pies’ long, savory, and sometimes unsavory history in England.
Next time you bite into a hot, crusty pork pie, consider where its peculiar name may have come from. And if you’re ever in Yorkshire, be sure to sample a local growler and celebrate the enduring appetite for this humble yet iconic meaty treat!
The Growler – Recipe
Two pig’s trotters, split down the middle (ask your butcher to do this!) two large carrots, chopped one onion, peeled and chopped two celery stalks, chopped one bouquet garni (bay, thyme, and parsley wrapped in a leek skin and tied together with string) half a tablespoon of black peppercorns
Around the Counties in 47 Blog Posts – 6/47 Leicestershire.
I admit I feared the county of Leicestershire and their regional Pork Pie. My fear was based on two things. One, these bundles of [eating] joy are not necessarily a joy to make. And two, I didn’t know what to call this article!.
How did I overcome my fears?
So, to get over my first fear, I put on my “Don’t Mess With the Chef” apron and walked into the kitchen, ready for a challenge. Concerning my second worry, I faced it by staying true to my roots (Yorkshire, that is) and calling this recipe “The Growler.” There was a chance that I would be dragged across Europe and scolded in court for using the Protected Designation of Origin.
I haven’t a clue why this food is a Pork Pie in Leicestershire and a Growler in Yorkshire. So I don’t forget another name, I should say that calling these growlers or pork pies a Melton Mowbray makes me growl. As a result, I shall steer clear of that particular designation.
For anyone who does not know, Yorkshire does have an affiliation with the Pork Pie. This is through a group that calls themselves The Pork Pie Appreciation Society, based in The Old Bridge Inn at Ripponden. This appreciation society claims to be Yorkshire’s oldest hostelry dating back to 1307.
That made me think of starting the “Yorkshire Pudding Appreciation Society” in the middle of nowhere in Lancashire. War of the roses springs to mind!.
Getting back to the recipe, there are three primary ingredients that make up a Growler.
First, the jelly, which is basically vegetable stock that gets its gelatinous texture from boiling up pig trotters. It may sound terrible but it really is not that bad.
Second, the filling, which is the easy bit. This is basically pork and anything else you think will compliment the pork.
And finally, the pastry, by far the hardest part of the recipe. Get this right the first time and you’ll be making Pork Pies on the regular. Get it wrong and it’s likely you’ll never attempt them again!.
To make this Growler a little bit special I put sage, apple, and Cote Hill blue cheese in my pork mixture. The Cote Hill blue cheese I picked up from my local farm shop. The result of my special ingredients is simply spectacular so I urge you to give this a go.
Proper Butchers Pork Pie
FAQ
What is the slang for pork pies?
Do they still put jelly in pork pies?
What is the difference between a pork pie and a Melton Mowbray pork pie?
What is pork pies real name?
What is a pork pie called in Yorkshire?
In Yorkshire slang a pork pie is sometimes called a “growler”, a term probably derived from the ” NAAFI growler” of earlier naval and army slang. An annual pork pie competition is held in April at The Old Bridge Inn, Ripponden, Yorkshire.
What is a growler pork pie?
In northern England, they have their own version of the pork pie, the ‘Growler’, a name said to refer either to the anticipatory rumble of a tummy just before eating one or the noise the stomach makes after consuming it. They are slightly smaller than the Melton Mowbray pork pie with moulded cases and a distinctive crimped lid.
What is a pork pie?
A pork pie is a traditional English meat pie, usually served either at room temperature or cold (although often served hot in Yorkshire ). It consists of a filling of roughly chopped pork and pork fat, surrounded by a layer of jellied pork stock in a hot water crust pastry. It is normally eaten as a snack or with a salad.
Where did pork pies come from?
While its origin is unclear, the association of pork pies with Christmas dates back to at least the mid-19th century and it was by far the busiest time of year for the Melton manufacturers. In Yorkshire, pork pies are often served hot, accompanied with gravy or with mushy peas and mint sauce.