6. Head Cheese or ‘brawn’. A cold-cut that originated in Europe. A version pickled with vinegar is known as souse. “.
I cooked with a guy named Ronnie Truax back in Key West in 1977. He was a burly, long-haired Harley-Davidson riding man with no fear and a lot of dash. If I had to choose one, I’d go with Daniel Day-Lewis in his “Gangs of New York” mode. He was loud and had more chops than I did behind a stove at that point in life. He also chose the job of head chef that I got because he knew it would give him more free time and a little less money. He used it to go to parts of Key West at the time that most people wouldn’t have dared.
He came back with ‘Souse’ one day and enlightened me to its savage yet seductive charms!
“Clean a pig head and split it open. Place head, feet and hocks in a large heavy kettle and cover with water. Add salt and pepper. Bring to boil and cook until tender. Remove meat from liquid, cool, strip from bones and chop. Add spices and liquid and boil until liquid is reduced by a half. ”.
I tried many things to make mine, but I never got too far away from animal parts that people in, say, the Ozarks would recognize more than Worth Avenue, Palm Beach.
I start with smoked pork hocks, pig’s feet, and pig’s tails. I cook them in water with a lot of white vinegar, chilies, onions, and spices. (The pig’s ears were missing on shopping day so I suffered their loss. ).
There is another pot where I cook honeycomb tripe, which is the lining of a cow’s stomach. It is slowly cooked and made tender with tomatoes, chilies, mirepoix vegetables, and good chicken stock.
I’d make a meal with just that part and be happy but that ain’t Souse, folks. So on we go!.
To please those who aren’t as daring, I add one more pot to the fire and cook the always-popular chicken wings in lime juice (not too much lime, though, enough) with Yukon gold potatoes (so sweet!), bell peppers, carrots, a red onion, and serrano chilies (for a nice steady chile buzz). I use the water that I cooked the hock, tail, and feet in. I now call it “Pig Bone Broth.” ” Why not? It sure didn’t stay “water” after rolling with that pig for three hours.
I serve it with finely chopped chilies and onions, torn cilantro and a wedge of lime.
If that kind of soup is too meaty for you, I have another one written by a woman from Texas for
Now place all of the above in a large pot and bring to a simmer. Cook for 2 or more hours and the pig meat is tender. Strain reserving the liquid for later.
When the meat is cool enough to handle shred and reserve it. There will be more skin, bones, and cartilage than meat, but don’t worry—the broth will taste great!
Take that part and top it with water by double and reduce it by half. Save that for balancing out the souse at the very end. This is the Pig Bone Broth.
Cut the tripe into 1 x 1 inch pieces trimming out any odd parts if necessary.
Place the tripe in a pot with enough cold water to cover. Add in the salt and vinegar and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat. Drain and rinse the tripe well. Throw out that water. Clean the pan.
Bring to a high simmer and maintain it skimming as necessary until just tender, (about 2 hours).
Toss the chicken wings with 3 tablespoons lime juice and the kosher salt and cayenne pepper. Set aside to marinate at room temperature for 1 hour.
Meanwhile cook the potatoes in salted water until not quite cooked through. (About 15 minutes). Strain and reserve.
Put the red onion, bell pepper, carrots, and serrano chile in the same pan as the wings. Cook and stir for about 10 minutes, until the onion has softened and started to brown.
Bring to a simmer, then lower the heat to medium-low, cover, and keep simmering for about 30 minutes, or until the chicken is done.
Souse, also known as head cheese, is a savory jellied pork dish with roots in various global cuisines. The Southern United States version often features pork head meat, feet, and ears simmered until tender and set in a vinegary broth. Making traditional Southern souse takes time and care, but results in a unique, old-fashioned meaty delicacy.
Here is a step-by-step guide to preparing authentic homemade Southern pork souse
Ingredients
- 1 hog’s head, split and cleaned thoroughly (eyes and brains removed)
- 2 hog’s feet, cleaned
- 2 hog’s ears
- Water to cover
- 1 cup white vinegar
- 1 tablespoon crushed red pepper flakes
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1⁄2 teaspoon dried sage
Step 1 – Simmer the Meat
Place the hog head, feet, and ears into a large stockpot. Cover completely with water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a gentle simmer.
Simmer for about 4 hours until the meat is very tender and falling off the bone. Check periodically and add more water if needed to keep the meat submerged.
Step 2 – Remove and Shred the Meat
Once fully cooked, carefully remove the head, feet, and ears from the pot. Allow to cool enough to handle
Pick all the meat from the bones. Discard the bones, skin, cartilage, and any unappetizing pieces.
Shred and chop the meat into small chunks. Place in a large bowl.
Step 3 – Drain and Mash the Meat
Drain off any liquid from the shredded meat. There will likely be some excess fat – try to remove as much as possible.
Use a potato masher or fork to mash and shred the meat further, until it forms a coarse, meaty paste.
Step 4 – Season the Meat
Add 1 cup white vinegar, 1 tablespoon crushed red pepper flakes, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon dried sage. Mix everything together well.
Taste and adjust seasoning if desired. Add more vinegar for tanginess, salt for overall flavor, red pepper for heat, or sage for earthiness.
Step 5 – Pack into Containers
Line a few small loaf pans, bowls, or containers with plastic wrap. Pack the souse mixture tightly into the lined containers.
Cover tightly and refrigerate overnight to allow the flavors to blend and the broth to fully gel.
Serving Suggestions
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Slice and serve cold, garnished with chopped parsley.
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Fry slices hot in a skillet until slightly crispy on the edges.
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Serve in sandwiches on crusty bread with mustard and pickles.
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Dice up and add to bean or vegetable soups for a meaty addition.
Southern-style souse has a unique texture from the natural gelatin in the pork meat and feet. The vinegar provides welcome brightness to balance the rich meatiness. Adjusting the seasoning allows you to control the flavor profile.
While not for everyone, pork souse remains a cherished staple in many Southern households. Making it yourself lets you source high-quality local meat and avoid questionable ingredients. Share a batch with adventurous family and friends looking to expand their culinary horizons.
Southern Style Pork Souse
How do you cook a pig with souse?
For more of Van Aken’s musings on souse, read The Mystery of Souse. Rinse the pigs feet and tails in several changes of water. Now place all of the above in a large pot and bring to a simmer. Cook for 2 or more hours and the pig meat is tender. Strain reserving the liquid for later. When the meat is cool enough to handle shred and reserve it.
What are the main ingredients in a Souse?
The main ingredients in a souse recipe include pork (you can use ham instead for a vegetarian option). Other common ingredients are onions, garlic, peppers, mustard seeds, allspice, cloves, bay leaves, peppercorns, salt, and sugar.
What are the different types of souses?
There are various types of souses. Some contain a variety of vegetables like onions, carrots, peppers, celery, and cabbage. Others consist of meats such as ham hocks, bacon, salt pork, or beef shanks. Additionally, you might find mushrooms, tomatoes, parsley, garlic, herbs, and spices used in souses.
What does a hot souse taste like?
Hot souse is souse that will have hot red peppers in it, giving it a spicy taste. Souse is often labelled “hot” or mild.” In Louisiana, “hot souse” will often also have crawdads and fish parts in it, and be very spicy. The other meaning of pork souse in the American south is pieces of cold pork served in a sauce.